In Ejigbo, Yoruba and French can exist side by side, a reflection of the town’s long history of migration, especially its ties to Côte d’Ivoire.

It may sound unusual in Nigeria, where English is the official language, and Yoruba is widely spoken across Osun State. But in this town, French has found a place in everyday life, thanks largely to generations of migration across West Africa.

Ejigbo, about 40 kilometres from Osogbo, is predominantly Yoruba. Its connection to French did not come from colonial rule or a change in Nigeria’s official language. It came through the people who left home, lived elsewhere and eventually returned.

From the early 20th century, people from Ejigbo began travelling to other parts of West Africa in search of work and business opportunities. Some settled in Benin, Togo and Ghana, while Côte d’Ivoire became one of the main destinations.

Many spent years in Ivorian cities, working, trading and raising families. Some eventually returned to Nigeria, bringing back money and, with it, a new language, food, and way of life.

French is spoken in some homes and communities, particularly among families with close ties to Côte d’Ivoire. Some residents also speak other West African languages they picked up while living abroad. Yoruba remains at the heart of everyday life, while English serves its usual role as Nigeria’s official language.

The connection with Côte d’Ivoire has also continued across generations.

Ejigbo people have established communities in places including Abidjan, Bouaké, Treichville and Grand-Bassam. Families travel between Nigeria and Côte d’Ivoire for business, weddings, funerals and other important occasions. Some have returned to Ejigbo permanently, while others continue to live between the two countries.

Walk through parts of the town, and the connection can be seen in small ways. Ivorian food is available, and some businesses have been known to accept CFA francs alongside the naira. But Ejigbo’s history goes back much further than its relationship with Côte d’Ivoire.

The town’s traditional history is linked to Akinjole Ogiyan, regarded as its founder. The Ogiyan remains the traditional ruler of Ejigbo, and the palace continues to be an important part of the town’s cultural life.

To get a feel for everyday Ejigbo, start at Oja Ejigbo, the traditional market in front of the palace.

Saturday is the main market day, when traders, farmers and shoppers from nearby communities gather to buy and sell.

There is little need for an itinerary here. Walk around, listen to the conversations and watch the market come alive. Farm produce changes hands, food is prepared and sold, and traders call out to customers.

Food is another way to see the town’s connection with Côte d’Ivoire. Attiéké, the fermented cassava dish closely associated with Côte d’Ivoire, is available in Ejigbo. For people who have lived in the country, it can bring back memories of their time there. For visitors, it is a chance to taste a little of that connection without crossing the border.

At the same time, Ejigbo’s food culture remains strongly Yoruba.

Agriculture is still important to the local economy. Farmers grow yam, cassava, cocoyam, sweet potato, maize, guinea corn and cowpea. Palm oil, kola nuts, coconuts and different fruits are also produced, while poultry, fishing and livestock farming provide other sources of income.

Then there is the Ogiyan Palace. The palace is closely tied to the traditional institution of the Ogiyan and to the annual Orisa Ogiyan Festival, one of the town’s major cultural events.

The festival is held around the beginning of the new yam harvest during the rainy season. It is dedicated to Orisa Ogiyan and includes traditional rites, performances and celebrations.

One of the better-known traditions is Ewo.

Traditionally, Ejigbo is divided into two groups, Isale Osolo and Oke Mapo, whose members take part in symbolic whipping contests. The practice is linked to the story of Sawoleje, an Ifa priest who, according to local tradition, was punished after having an affair with the wife of an Ogiyan.

The story says he later placed a curse on the town, and the whipping ritual became associated with protecting Ejigbo from further trouble.

Like many traditional festivals, Orisa Ogiyan has changed over the years. What was once mainly a religious and ritual observance has grown into a wider cultural celebration that attracts residents and visitors.

For visitors interested in more than Ejigbo’s French connection, the festival offers a chance to see some of the town’s older traditions.

Getting there
Getting to Ejigbo by road is fairly easy. The town is about 40 kilometres from Osogbo, 35 kilometres from Iwo, 30 kilometres from Ogbomoso and roughly 95 kilometres from Ibadan. 

Visitors travelling from Lagos can make the journey by road through the southwest. From Osogbo, Ejigbo can also be visited as a day trip.

Spend some time at Oja Ejigbo. Walk around the palace area. Try the food. Speak to residents about their experiences in Côte d’Ivoire.

And if you speak French, don’t be surprised if someone answers you in French. That is part of what makes Ejigbo interesting.

Ejigbo is not a French town. It is a Yoruba town with a long history of movement across West Africa. French is simply one of the clearest signs of that history.