On Tuesday, former presidential aide Reno Omokri stirred online controversy when he claimed that an attire commonly associated with the Igbo ethnic group and minorities in the Niger Delta does not originate from them.

Omokri was referring to the Okpu Agu cap, Etibo shirt, and wrapper worn by podcaster Ezugwu Chukwudi, popularly known as Husband Material, during his appearance on the Honest Bunch podcast aired Tuesday night, sparking intense debate among Nigerians.

When asked why he frequently wears Yoruba Aso Oke attire, which he also promotes on his social media pages, Omokri explained his preference, then turned to critique the hosts for wearing Western clothing. He also pointed at Husband Material, who was dressed in traditional attire.

Pointing to Husband Material, he said, “Nothing he’s wearing is of Nigerian origin.”

“That is not of Nigerian origin,” Omokri said, referring to the Okpu Agu hat. “That is a colonial winter cap that the colonialists were using. It is the truth. It is not of Igbo origin.”

He then pointed to the presenter’s shirt: “The reason why they call it Etibo—even my people, the Itsekiri, wear it. I don’t wear it because it is actually a sailor’s uniform.

The reason why they call it Etibo is because it was sewn for ‘Eight Bols’, which is an old currency. They couldn’t pronounce ‘Eight Bols’, so they called it Etibo. It is not of Nigerian origin. The studs are not of Nigerian origin.”

Regarding the wrapper, Omokri said: “And this wrapper—they call them George—comes from Holland. During the coronation of King George, the colonial government gave Nigerian women George, and that’s why they decided to wear it. It comes from Holland, and the cheaper ones come from India. They just make you think that it is Nigerian. It is not made in Nigeria.”

Omokri continued: “Aso Oke has been made in Nigeria for over 800 years. If you go to the British Museum, you will see the Ooni of Ife… The reason you don’t recognise it as Aso Oke is because you’re used to seeing it sewn differently. That cloth the Ooni wrapped around himself, tied over his shoulder—that’s Aso Oke. That’s why I choose to wear only authentic Nigerian materials.”

However, Okwu ID, a UK-based organisation promoting African and Igbo culture, described Okpu Agu as a knitted woollen hat—somewhat cone-shaped with a bob at the end—traditionally worn by warriors in Igbo land.

According to its website, these warriors were part of the Aro Confederacy, a powerful political and economic alliance that emerged in southeastern Nigeria around Arochukwu during the 18th and 19th centuries.

That said, the Okpu Agu does closely resemble the winter cap worn by Westerners, known as a beanie. According to Zaini, a UK store specialising in knitted hats, the beanie originated in 12th-century Wales, where it was called the Monmouth Cap. Other sources affirm that Americans later gave the cap the name Beanie when it arrived in the US in the 20th century.

Verdicts

Okpu Agu:

If beanie caps existed in the West as far back as the 12th century, and the Aro Confederacy emerged in the 18th and 19th centuries, it is plausible that the Okpu Agu was inspired by Western designs during colonial contact. Since there are no historical records of Okpu Agu predating colonialism, Omokri’s claim that it was introduced by colonialists appears credible.

Score: 90%

Etibo:

Omokri’s claim that the Etibo shirt resembles a sailor’s uniform is also reasonable. The shirt, particularly when studded, bears similarities to colonial naval attire. Additionally, there is no evidence of a similar style being used by Nigerians before colonial contact.

Score: 70%

George Wrapper:

Omokri’s claim about the George wrapper has significant historical support. According to the Textile Research Centre (TRC), in 1611, the British East India Company established a factory near Madraspatnam (now Chennai), an area renowned for its textile production. British merchants promoted the export of this cloth, now widely known as Madras or George cloth. The Dutch imported versions were known as Madras doek. Thus, the George wrapper has clear colonial and foreign roots.

Score: 80%