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This Italian bespoke menswear brand prioritizes history and quality despite rising tide of fast fashion

By Guardian Nigeria
17 December 2022   |   12:11 am
Some of the most rampant trends in the fashion industry prioritize speed and affordability over quality and history. Fast fashion has become an industry mainstay, inevitably leading to quick and cheap garments that often last only a short time. For over twenty years, fast fashion companies have peddled the idea that buying a trendy new…

Some of the most rampant trends in the fashion industry prioritize speed and affordability over quality and history. Fast fashion has become an industry mainstay, inevitably leading to quick and cheap garments that often last only a short time.

For over twenty years, fast fashion companies have peddled the idea that buying a trendy new outfit will make people happy. However, most consumers have recently realized this is not the case. Despite this, even the most conscientious shopper finds it hard to avoid fast fashion because of its accessibility and low price.

Fortunately, some brands are still dedicated to preserving the quality and history of their clothing. Consider Sartoria dei Duchi, a fast-rising Italian bespoke menswear brand with roots in the historic coastal commune of Atri, Italy. The company takes pride in producing made-to-measure suits and other formal wear staples from high-quality fabrics.

Paying homage to the Dukes of Atri

Sartoria dei Duchi was founded with the intention of providing customers with opulent, custom-tailored suits, shirts, accessories, and shoes made from the finest Italian silk and leather. Loro Piana and Albini of Italy are the official fabric suppliers for the brand’s suits and shirts.

Sartoria dei Duchi’s creation was heavily inspired by the House of Acquaviva’s legacy. CEO and founder Piero Pavone traces his roots to this small Italian commune in Atri.

“Traditionally, the Italian aristocracy with their ‘old money’ would invest in exquisite clothing, custom-tailored suits made from only the finest wools and richest silks, as depicted in Renaissance-era paintings such as Tiziano Vecellio’s portrait of Duke Giovanni Francesco Aquaviva,” explains Pavone.

The Dukes of Acquaviva in Atri have a long history beginning in 1393 that can be attributed to the current Sartoria dei Duchi. They were patrons and warriors and did everything in their power to make Atri a cultural center. Their reign lasted seven centuries and ended in 1700, but the noble families of Atri and beyond are still dressed according to sartorial tradition.

Pavone, who has spent a significant amount of time living in other cities, has built the brand in Atri in an effort to restore its once-prominent position in the bespoke suiting industry. He expounds, “We are proud to carry on Atri’s history and craftsmanship because we do not wish to lose its original elegance.”

The resurgence of the bespoke suit

Sartoria dei Duchi’s entire collection is inspired by the traditional Italian suit. With a personal tailor who helps make everything custom-made, each client can feel like traditional Italian royalty.

“There is no such thing as an identical suit anywhere, which is precisely the point of bespoke. Each item is as unique as the personality of each client. Pavone elaborates. “At Sartoria dei Duchi, we aim to highlight this characteristic.”

Aesthetics is only one of many considerations. In fact, one of the first things people notice about a bespoke item is its unique appearance, possibly due to the finely crafted details that set it apart from a mass-produced suit.

For Sartoria dei Duchi, what the customer feels while wearing the suit is more important than the suit itself. Each suit is tailored to the exact measurements of the wearer, allowing it to move with them and follow their every curve and swish.

“In business negotiations, it is crucial to use the proper body language to convey the intended message,” Pavone emphasizes. “When you wear a custom suit, people will perceive you as confident and well-dressed, but on the inside, you will feel very at ease.”

Preserving tradition while looking ahead

As was common in Old Italy, Sartoria dei Duchi’s success can be attributed to the company’s insistence on using only the finest materials. In addition, the company employs only the finest Italian artisans, who are uncompromising in their craft and have decades of experience in the field. Pavone states that it could take up to sixty hours to create a single suit, and with that much effort and intricacy, the skill should be learned from where it has been passed down for generations.

Sartoria dei Duchi does not mass produce and only uses premium fabrics from Loro Piana and Albini. To maintain quality, master tailors at Sartoria dei Duchi produce only one to two hundred suits per year to maintain quality. Pavone and his team strive to continue sharing Atri’s love and passion for Italian tailoring by creating modern suits based on traditional values and using high-quality, ethically produced wool, linen, silk, and fine cotton.

Sartoria dei Duchi opened its first showroom outside of Italy this year (2022) at the Sofitel Dubai The Palm to expand its global reach. The five-star beach resort is situated on The Palm Jumeirah, a well-known area in Dubai, home to some of the city’s most opulent hotels and resorts. The famous island, which is a haven for tourists, wealthy expatriates, and wealthy investors, is home to approximately 25,000 people.

In addition, Pavone intends to launch Sartoria dei Duchi showrooms in Singapore, Saudi Arabia, and London in 2023.

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