Despite the diverse narratives about the history of Ankara, there is no misconception about the identity of the fabric made for Africans and worn by Africans; the rest is ‘tales by moonlight’.

Ankara is African Signature Fabric
History has it that Ankara was originally produced for the Indonesian market by a Dutch company specialising in wax prints. However, due to printing imperfections, the fabrics were rejected. Rather than discard them, the manufacturers reportedly redirected the shipment to West Africa, where the bold colours and striking patterns were enthusiastically embraced. Another version claims that the Dutch specifically produced the fabric for the Ghanaian market, from where it spread along the West African coast through trade.

However, whichever account one chooses to believe, Ankara may not be indigenous in the same way as Adire, Kente, Akwete, Bogolanfini (Bogolan), or Aso-Oke. Nevertheless, it has been thoroughly embraced by Africans and has become an essential part of wardrobes across the continent. From West Africa to East and Southern Africa, Ankara is now universally recognised as an African textile.

Today, there is much discussion about Ankara’s place in African culture. Many Ankara designs from the 1950s and 1960s incorporated unmistakably African motifs, including wildlife, foliage, and symbolic imagery. Others commemorated significant historical events such as the independence celebrations of the 1960s or featured portraits of prominent African leaders.

This was the take of one of Africa’s prominent designers Ade Bakare, the Design Director/Lecturer of Ade Bakare Couture who recently unveiled a contemporary range of Ankara pieces suitable for every occasion and every day wear for Summer 2026 Collection.

Ade Bakare Couture Summer 2026 Collection
This collection is our tribute to Ankara – its fascinating history, its remarkable adoption by Africa, and its enduring place in the story of African fashion. Ade Bakare remarked. “At Ade Bakare Couture, we rarely use Ankara, preferring indigenous fabrics because we believe strongly in promoting and preserving Africa’s original textile heritage. However, every five years we create a special Ankara collection to celebrate the fabric’s remarkable journey and enduring influence on African fashion.” The Summer 2026 Collection includes:

. Elegant long dresses with sculptural bell sleeves,

. Wrap dresses enhanced with soft pleats.

. Tailored Ankara suits combined with delicate lace.

. Sophisticated jumpsuits featuring rope straps and ringlet details, that transition effortlessly from the office to evening engagements.

Collection Craftsmanship and Details

Throughout the collection, particular emphasis has been placed on craftsmanship and detail, incorporating pleats, gathers, bell sleeves, and graceful frills to create timeless yet modern silhouettes.