Have you ever asked yourself what happens to all those extra pieces of cut fabric, paper, thread, and accessories, often seen behind the scenes of a tailor’s shop or fashion designer’s production floor? Or have you considered the origins or destinations of the “second-hand – Okrika” market, where the massive sacks of ‘bend-down boutique,’ ‘Pre-Loved merchandise,’ and ‘vintage’ items are being bought and sold? Furthermore, have these items even passed global quality checks, or have the economy and convenience simply made Nigeria a dumping ground? These scenarios beg the critical question: Where does all this waste go? While specific figures for Nigeria are hard to pinpoint, it is estimated that the African continent generates millions of tonnes of textile waste annually.
[ad]
To put the global waste figures in context, approximately 92 million tonnes of textile waste is recorded annually, most of which comes from production processes, where about 15-20% of the fabric used to make clothing is discarded. On average, 85% of all discarded textiles end up in landfills, causing long-term environmental damage. When it comes to the mass fashion market, where it is a game of cheaper costs and huge quantities, the use of synthetic fibres is unavoidable because it is cheap, easy to produce, and made en masse, even though these fabrics take hundreds of years to decompose. Additionally, water usage is not exempt from this waste, with billions of cubic litres used annually to meet the needs of millions in fashion production alone. Notably, fashion is responsible for 10% of carbon emissions annually, and production cycles of thousands of designers producing collections quarterly or even bi-annually worldwide lead to a constant increase in this waste every year. Alarmingly, recycling is down to less than 1% within the fashion space.
Given these challenges, how do we begin to effect changes or beat the system when a new designer or fashion entrepreneur is born every day, dreaming of creating masterpieces and eyeing the glitz and glamour of fashion while our industry has sadly been unable to address these pressing issues?
Nevertheless, Nigeria is gradually embracing the idea of sustainable fashion that harmonises traditional practices with modern methods. In a country rich in cultural heritage and textile production, we cannot deny how the vibrancy of our fashion expressions has a direct or indirect effect on climate and pollution.
[ad]
Moreover, local fashion houses are leading the charge, striving to minimise waste and reduce carbon footprints. By sourcing materials locally and utilising natural dyes and traditional weaving techniques, these designers are redefining the industry’s environmental impact. Furthermore, the logistics of delivery processes are under scrutiny to ensure sustainability at every level.
However, the allure of fast fashion presents a significant challenge. With fast fashion just a click away, discussing pollution and ethics with consumers can often feel like an uphill battle, as they tend to prioritise cost over sustainability, opting for quick and cheap solutions that come with hidden environmental costs.
In addition, the difficulty in accessing sustainable materials compounds the issue. Designers and local artisans frequently find themselves competing against cheaper, mass-produced alternatives that promise higher profit margins. Even with local companies offering alternatives like locally sourced cotton and locally woven textiles, implementing and advocating the use of age-old production techniques that would drive the sustainability movement proves to be a significant uphill task. This is particularly true when considering the demand from 50-100 million Nigerians and the juggernaut of logistics, which they must navigate while battling rising fuel prices and a fledgling road, rail, or air transport network. Moreover, the issue of security for life, product, and business complicates matters further. This dilemma mirrors the broader struggle between healthy eating and affordability: while nutritious options are beneficial, they often come at a premium. Unfortunately, sustainability is also a premium dish that can only succeed when all hands are on deck.
Consequently, this analogy reveals that consumers should take purchasing options more seriously by always asking themselves: Am I focused on immediate gratification or long-term sustainability? Would I rather invest in timeless pieces or opt for items that have a fleeting lifespan?
[ad]
Achieving sustainability is indeed possible through manageable, intentional steps. As the world grapples with the consequences of fashion choices, a shift toward sustainability offers hope and inspiration. By celebrating local culture, prioritising eco-friendly practices, and promoting education, the fashion industry can become a force for positive change. For example, companies such as NACK, an urban fashion brand, collaborate with local artisans and prioritise using local dyes and traditional crafts while also educating the consumer through their pieces. Other brands like AMARELIS emphasise upcycling and using preloved fabrics to create sustainable pieces. ALARA, a luxury lifestyle brand, curates collections from designers who prioritise eco-friendly practices and embrace sustainability. Similarly, Dye Lab explores dyeing techniques to create products that offer a practical yet artisanal sensibility. The brand This Is Us pays homage to Nigeria’s indigenous cultures by supporting sustainable practices, including handmade crafts and the repurposing of materials, such as creating pieces made from natural cotton dyed in the ancient dye pits of Kano, Nigeria. Additionally, GNATION employs sustainable practices of collaboration and outsources the production of their tie-dye products while minimising waste by using leftover fabrics to create fashion accessories such as tote bags, shoe bags, handkerchiefs, and table mats as freebies with purchases made by clients. Furthermore, Lagos Fashion Week has driven initiatives and programmes promoting sustainable fashion. For instance, The Green Access programme supports emerging designers committed to eco-friendly practices, which is crucial in building a sustainability culture within the industry. Overall, brands are beginning to embrace the movement in a slow but steady manner.
Yet, will they ever be able to mass produce and cater to the teeming fashion needs of 150 million people and counting? The conversations are ongoing at various global tables. The passion and drive to innovate, educate, and distinguish oneself in the global fashion space, where impact is welcome and collaboration gives traction, is a powerful motivation that makes this achievable.
Consequently, engaging all stakeholders through education and information is key to fostering sustainable practices within the fashion community. Stakeholders, including the Ministry of Arts and Culture, organisations like the Fashion Designers Association of Nigeria, the Nigerian Export Promotion Council, and all fashion entrepreneurs—from ‘Sura the tailor’ with treadle sewing machines down the street to established brands complete with brand names and websites—stand to gain knowledge through open dialogue and collaboration. This can create jobs, foster connections, provide subsidies for sustainable materials, implement taxes for non-sustainable ones, and market Nigeria’s vibrant culture on a global scale. Ultimately, it will be a win for all to make an impact while prioritising environmental responsibility. Advocacy for government support through policy reforms, grants, and incentives for eco-friendly practices is crucial for Nigeria to enhance its position in the global fashion landscape.
In Nigeria, the streets are not just a canvas for fashion creativity; fashion brands are not merely out to make money or a name for themselves. Instead, art and artistic expression in music, crafts, graffiti, and a myriad of partnerships with other industries are evolving into platforms for change.
With these changes, the country can lead the way in the sustainable fashion movement, turning its vibrant culture into a sustainable future.
[ad]
