When Dare Aliu, the technical mind behind TDA Couture, announced the release of The Professional Doctrine as a collection of suits on June 14, 2021, the anticipation was warranted.
Dare Aliu is known for his technical proficiency in garment construction, pattern manipulation and illustration. The collection comprises expertly crafted suits and speaks to men who appreciate fit, proportion, and refined craftsmanship.
A well-made suit is defined by how it conforms to the body while allowing ease of movement, and TDA Couture’s execution is commendable. Every garment in this collection exhibits a meticulous approach to measurement and proportion – a testament to Aliu’s technical prowess in pattern drafting and garment construction.
Each suit adheres to meticulous measurement points, ensuring a structured yet natural drape. The shoulders are engineered with just the right amount of padding, reinforcing the shape of the jacket without veering into stiffness. Trousers are expertly cut, tapering at the right angles to elongate the frame while maintaining comfort.
The single-breasted, two-button suit is arguably the most versatile in the collection, designed for both corporate and social settings. The notch lapels are well-proportioned, and the trousers follow a tailored but comfortable line.
However, the lapel width, while classic, feels slightly conservative given contemporary tailoring styles. A slightly broader lapel could have added more style, particularly for men with broader chests or longer torsos.
The black tuxedo in this collection is a masterclass in formal wear, executed with a modern edge. Featuring a single-breasted jacket with satin peak lapels, a double-breasted vest, and a black bow tie, this look is undeniably refined yet striking. A gold chain detail on the vest and a decorative lapel pin injects a subtle touch of individualism, ensuring that this tuxedo feels less like a uniform and more like a statement.
A six-button, double-breasted suit with wide peak lapels and a pocket square is another bold statement in this collection. The buttoning stance is intelligently positioned, allowing for ease of movement while maintaining structure. Double-breasted suits can often overwhelm the wearer if not cut properly, but here, the proportions are handled with care. Although the pinstripe alignment across seams is solid, a little refinement could have elevated its appearance. While the front panels are aligned, the back and sleeve seams could have displayed more fluid continuity in stripe placement. However, it is just a minor deviation that separates exceptional tailoring from absolute perfection.
The choice of peak vs. notch lapels, single vs. double-breasted cuts, and measured trouser silhouettes all indicate a deliberate balancing act between timeless tailoring and modern expectations.
The Professional Doctrine’s strength lies in its ability to cater to both conservative dressers and those who appreciate tailored distinction. There is no question about Dare Aliu’s technical expertise. His grasp of measurement, garment structure, and fit precision is evident in every piece. The Professional Doctrine reinforces TDA Couture’s reputation for disciplined tailoring, offering suits that exude authority and finesse.