All roads led to the Yaba College of Technology (YABATECH) recently, as renowned textile designer and art scholar, Professor Tunde Akinwumi, celebrasted his 80th birthday at the Yusuf Grillo Art Gallery of the school.
Lined up activities included a reflection of issues on contemporary Nigerian fashion, tributes and referenced fashion book exhibition.
Professor Akinwumi began his artistic journey at YABATECH before proceeding to Ahmadu Bello University, Zaria, for his first degree. He later returned to YABATECH, where he established the Higher National Diploma in Textile Design and trained the pioneer set in 1978. After completing his master’s degree in 1981, he advanced to the University of Ibadan where he obtained a PhD in Art History with a focus on event fabrics.
His doctoral research examined how the Yoruba people commission textiles to mark different stages of life, which he described as the cycles of life.
These include infancy, adulthood, parenthood, social recognition, old age and death. He explained that the popular aso ebi represents only one stage of this cycle, specifically associated with death celebrations.
Recognised as a fashion and clothing historian, Akinwumi has devoted decades to researching, teaching and documenting Nigerian textile heritage. At the event, he displayed a collection of classical adire pieces dating back to the 1980s and 1990s, which inspired his 2015 publication, Adire Eleko Fabric Art: A Vanishing Nigerian Indigo Impression.
He revealed that his passion for collecting adire was sparked by observing white and black American collectors who value the fabric as an art form. Their enthusiasm motivated him to begin his own collection and in-depth study of the indigenous craft.
He also spoke on his research into fading dressing traditions, particularly decorative tattoos that once served as identity and beauty symbols among older Nigerian women. He explained that younger generations no longer maintain this practice. His extensive study on the subject produced a 370-page publication, titled, Mama’s Tattoos, which he described as his most comprehensive work. He added that tattoos form part of the broader definition of clothing, representing another form of body adornment and expression.
Reflecting on his international experience, Professor Akinwumi recounted how his expertise earned him recognition from the American government following his PhD.
During Ambassador Walter Carrington’s tenure, he reviewed American artworks and later received an invitation to a conference at the New York State University . His presentation there earned him a Fulbright Scholarship that took him to six states, including Minnesota, Iowa, Washington, New York and Indiana. He described this period as one of the most fulfilling moments of his professional journey.
He expressed gratitude to the Nigerian government for recognising his contributions to arts and for giving him the opportunity to review the works of other distinguished artists being considered for national honours. He described this task as both honourable and rewarding.
The professor also spoke about his deep involvement in fashion design. He revealed that he weaves his own aso oke fabrics in his workshop at Abule Egba, Lagos, explaining that his creations are lightweight versions designed to correct the common problem of heavy and imitation fabrics in the market. After weaving, he collaborates with fashion producers to tailor them into senator wears and other modern styles.
Known for his elegant dressing, he designs exclusively for himself, combining aso oke with other materials to achieve distinctive looks that draw admiration from others.
He further noted that his creative interests began in childhood when he would copy drawings from children’s illustration books to create decorative product packaging. Over the years, his research has continued to focus on traditional dressing practices and use.
Speaking on the challenges facing Nigeria’s textile industry, Akinwumi explained that the classical adire takes about five days to produce but has been undermined by mass produced, substandard imitations imported from China.
While he acknowledged that technology could simplify the production of starch paste, he maintained that authentic adire still requires manual skill and physical engagement.
Former Dean of the School of Art at YABATECH, Dr Kunle Adeyemi, noted that the sector has been neglected for too long, leading to the collapse of many fabric industries.
He urged the government to prioritise the revival of the textile industry alongside other key sectors of the economy.
