Within Africa’s evolving fashion scene, Paul Williams’ atelier has carved a niche as one of the few existing bespoke brands reviving indigenous men’s fashion with a midas touch. In his latest collection, Denola SS25, the garment maker refurbishes the Nigerian Agbada menswear as a memento of Nigeria’s vintage fashion era. Bridging the past with the present, Denola SS25 reimagines the Agbada, as a contemporary fashion piece for the modern, cosmopolitan Nigerian man.
Designed with the Aso Oke/Aso Ofi fabric, a local handwoven fabric made with silk and cotton, Paul Williams’ Memory collection breathes in the novelty of style and sewing. His previous Adetoke SS25 collection had already started this local menswear renaissance, with his pieces standing out as symbols for innovative local fashion. Now, in Denola SS25, he continues this ascent, creating a loose-fitted short-sleeved shirt called Àwòtéle, which resembles the Dashiki, a jumper trouser and matching hat known as Fila.
In Denola SS25, Paul Williams brilliantly tailors the outfit with clever reinterpretations of the Dashiki and Aso-oke silhouettes, while edging the design towards modern structures and proportions. Besides the silhouette, the Denola Agbada also thrives as a 2-piece garment, unlike the more popular 3-piece formats; its 2-piece style gives it a more functional, comfy, eco-friendly and versatile use design. From casual to ceremonial and formal gatherings, the Denola SS25 fits the occasion, with its luxe-leaning appeal and smart look.
Denola SS25 continues its ethnographic commentary with its traditional craftsmanship, especially in its tailoring textures. Weaving three colours of Aso Oke/Aso Ofi, unlike the more popular two-coloured Aso Oke/Aso Ofi garments, with mesh perforations and a hand-finished cross stitching that looks like hand drawn footpaths on a map. The design, true to form for Paul Williams and his effervescent artistic interpretations of heritage, migration and cultural exchange, breathes as an ode to the extensive foot travels that dotted the lives of pre-colonial Africans.
The icing on the cake for Denola SS25 is its digital embroidery, flowing with Yoruba-inspired geometric embroidery motifs. From diamond-shaped motifs to connecting curves, the embroidery designs stand out as bold, artsy, and minimalist, striking a delicate balance between cultural flamboyance and luxury minimalism.
Overall, Denola SS25 surfaces as Paul Williams’ latest effort in his ongoing cultural evangelism, reconnecting younger, modern audiences with vintage Nigerian fashion. The design flatters the user, with its loose-fitting, free-spirited structure, its clever combination of trio colours, intricate storytelling cross stitching and its ornamental embroidery. It can be easily styled with leather sandals, shoes or even sneakers, unlocking a variety of options for everyday use. It’s a classic in Paul Williams’ design playbook, and a befitting ode to the glory of ancestral African fashion.
