Adebusola Adu is the Lead formulator and trainer at Forever Yasaph Academy, focused on grooming healthy hair and skin amongst Africans. In this interview, she speaks on her role formulating hair and skincare solutions for African consumers.

What are the critical considerations when developing products for African kinky/coily hair types, especially in hot or dry climates?

Formulating for kinky/coily hair requires attention to moisture retention, strand fragility, and porosity. In hot climates, it’s important to avoid humectants that pull moisture out of the hair (e.g., glycerin in low humidity). In dry climates, occlusives like butters and waxes help retain hydration. The ideal product must support elasticity, reduce breakage, and prevent scalp dryness.

How does skin melanin concentration influence the formulation of safe and effective skincare products for African consumers?

Melanin-rich skin is more susceptible to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and often has a stronger stratum corneum. Formulators must minimize irritation risks by avoiding high percentages of harsh acids or sensitizing ingredients. Active ingredients should support barrier repair and even tone, such as niacinamide, allantoin, and licorice extract, rather than bleaching agents.

What are the most common formulation mistakes you’ve seen in products marketed to African women, and how would you correct them?

Some frequent issues include overly drying cleansers, protein overload in treatments, and heavy use of synthetic fragrance. These often lead to scalp irritation and product buildup. Correction starts with tailoring formulations to hair porosity, reducing sulfates, and ensuring a balance between humectants, emollients, and pH-appropriate actives.

Can you speak to the role of natural oils and botanical ingredients in the formulation of leave-in conditioners and moisturizers for textured hair?

Natural oils provide both functional and therapeutic benefits — sealing moisture, improving elasticity, and soothing the scalp. Ingredients like avocado oil, baobab oil, hibiscus, and fenugreek offer emollient and strengthening properties. However, oils should be carefully selected based on comedogenicity, penetration ability, and compatibility with the formulation base.

How should formulators address scalp health challenges like dandruff, dryness, and traction alopecia prevalent among African women?

Scalp-focused formulations must target both microbial balance and follicular health. This can include mild antifungals, pH-balanced shampoos, and anti-inflammatory botanicals. Traction alopecia requires gentle formulations with follicle-supportive actives like caffeine, saw palmetto, and biotin, paired with guidance on low-tension styling practices.

What research or clinical studies are informing your choice of preservatives and emulsifiers in non-toxic, eco-friendly haircare formulations?

Selection is guided by internationally recognized standards (COSMOS, ECOCERT) and microbiological efficacy studies. Preservatives such as benzyl alcohol with dehydroacetic acid or naturally derived peptides like Leuconostoc ferment filtrate are preferred. Emulsifiers are chosen based on biodegradability and skin compatibility — examples include Olivem 1000 or Cetearyl glucoside.

In the push for clean beauty, how should African formulators balance traditional herbal knowledge with modern cosmetic science?

Traditional knowledge offers culturally resonant ingredients and time-tested remedies. Scientific validation — including solubility profiles, stability testing, and dermal toxicity screening — ensures safe integration. The goal is evidence-informed fusion, where ancestral plant use is preserved without compromising safety or efficacy.

How do you evaluate the impact of pH balance in the formulation of shampoos and conditioners specifically for afro-textured hair?

Afro-textured hair responds best to products in the pH range of 4.5 to 5.5. Formulations outside this range can disrupt the cuticle and increase porosity. pH must be tested consistently, especially in aqueous formulations. For damaged hair, acidic pH helps retain keratin and smooth the hair shaft.

What expert recommendations would you give regulators or ingredient safety boards concerning chemical exposure from long-term use of relaxers and bleaching creams?

There is an urgent need to restrict endocrine-disrupting and carcinogenic agents like formaldehyde, hydroquinone, and phthalates. Mandatory ingredient disclosure, concentration limits, and usage warnings should be enforced. Additionally, public education on natural alternatives and cultural hair acceptance should be prioritized.

Can you assess the state of cosmetic science education in Africa and what changes are needed to support innovation in safe hair and skin product formulation?

While grassroots innovation is growing, formal education remains limited. There’s a need for region-specific curriculum, localized regulatory training, and access to affordable lab facilities. Supporting women-led formulation initiatives and standardizing certification pathways will help raise formulation standards continent-wide.

What unique challenges arise when producing haircare for children with natural hair, and how do you overcome them?

Children’s formulations must be non-irritating, hypoallergenic, and free from harsh surfactants or essential oils. Tear-free testing and allergen avoidance are essential. Formulators should rely on mild emulsifiers and natural moisturizers like oat extract and aloe vera, keeping ingredient lists minimal and pH skin-safe.

How can hair and skin product formulators contribute to the sustainability movement, particularly in packaging and raw material sourcing?

Eco-responsibility begins with raw materials — choosing biodegradable, renewable ingredients and fair-trade sources. Packaging innovations like compostable pouches, glass alternatives, and refill stations reduce environmental impact. Formulators also have a role in educating consumers on waste-reducing routines.

What information is essential to include on product labels to ensure consumer safety and regulatory compliance across African markets?

Labels should list INCI names, batch number, net weight, expiration date, usage instructions, and allergen alerts. In multilingual regions, translation is critical. Countries with developing regulations should harmonize with global standards like EU 1223/2009 or the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive for consistency.

Can you speak to the importance of creating gender-inclusive or culturally sensitive personal care products in Africa’s growing beauty industry?

Gender-inclusive formulation focuses on function over stereotype — responding to individual skin/hair needs rather than perceived gender. Culturally sensitive products avoid reinforcing colorism or hair discrimination and instead promote pride in African features. Inclusive branding and ethical ingredient choices are also part of this responsibility.

How do you determine the long-term safety and efficacy of a new formulation before taking it to market, especially in low-regulation environments?

Pre-market validation should include accelerated stability tests, patch tests, and user trials. Even in low-regulation markets, formulators should voluntarily conduct microbial testing and follow GMP. Third-party labs can support safety assurance, and documentation helps in eventual regulatory submission or export.

Could you share any original formulation techniques you’ve developed that are now being adopted by other formulators or beauty educators?

One example is a multi-phase Black soap herbal infusion method that maximizes active extraction while preserving heat-sensitive nutrients — now being explored in several community training groups. Another is a moisture retention layering protocol adapted for high-porosity hair in semi-arid regions. Both techniques are grounded in practical application and scalable teaching.