Beauty  

Is your skin retinol purging?

By Favour Agbai

08 December 2024   |   7:37 am

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Retinol is renowned for its skincare benefits, but its initial use can sometimes lead to purging. Here’s how to recognise and manage this phase for healthier skin. Whether you’re battling stubborn acne or aiming to prevent premature ageing, there’s a chance retinoids will make their way into your skincare routine. Hailed as the “holy grail”…

Retinol is renowned for its skincare benefits, but its initial use can sometimes lead to purging. Here’s how to recognise and manage this phase for healthier skin.

Whether you’re battling stubborn acne or aiming to prevent premature ageing, there’s a chance retinoids will make their way into your skincare routine. Hailed as the “holy grail” by dermatologists globally, retinol is one of the most sought-after active ingredients for treating various skin conditions.

Retinol effectively combats acne, reduces scars, and improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also boosts skin cell turnover, which introduces healthy cells to the surface of your skin and slows down signs of ageing.

“However, in doing so, the retinoids can also cause clogging, breakouts, redness, and/or peeling to occur during this initial adjustment phase,” explains board-certified dermatologist, Harold Lancer. This is called retinol skin purging.

READ ALSO: Five common skincare mistakes people make

What does retinol purging look like?

The term “purging” refers to a purification or cleansing process, which your skin undergoes during the retinoid purging phase. Retinoids function at a cellular level to normalise skin turnover, drawing impurities clogging your pores to the surface. The combination of increased cell turnover and unclogging pores can lead to temporary breakouts as everything surfaces at once. Retinol purging varies among individuals, influenced by their skin type and overall skin health.

New skin can become exposed, appearing red and irritated as it adjusts to this turnover. Whiteheads, blackheads, papules, and pustules may also form in clusters and hard bumps, especially around the nose and mouth where the skin is the thinnest. All these combined may cause your skin to appear rough with an uneven skin texture. 

However, board-certified dermatologist, Corey Hartman, MD, notes that these initial flare-ups while beginning a new retinoid product are good. “It means the retinol is working to turn over your skin,” he says.

How long does it last?

The duration of a retinoid purge, while it varies based on your skin type, typically lasts about four weeks. Flare-ups can last as long as eight weeks, which is equivalent to two cell cycles. If you’ve been using a product for more than three months and the purging persists, it’s important to reassess, as there may be another underlying issue requiring a dermatologist’s attention.

But how can you distinguish between a normal “purge” and a more serious skin condition?

Acne breakout vs retinol purge

While acne breakouts and retinol-induced skin purging may have similar symptoms, they are distinct processes. 

If you rarely experience breakouts but notice a sudden increase in pimples, particularly after introducing retinoids, this could be a sign of rapid skin cell turnover or a skin purge. These breakouts are usually smaller and more superficial than cystic acne flare-ups.

Retinol purging is a temporary phase. As your skin adapts to the increased cell turnover, breakouts should gradually diminish, resulting in a smoother texture and brighter complexion.

Acne breakouts, on the other hand, can be triggered due to stress, excess oil production, bacteria, hormonal changes, diet, and environmental factors. This may result in various lesions including whiteheads, blackheads, papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts. Acne can appear anywhere on the body and tends to be larger, deeper, and more inflamed than breakouts associated with retinol purging.

How to deal with retinol purging

If you notice an adverse reaction to your retinoid, your first instinct may be to discontinue use. However, Dr Hartman warns against this. “Doing so will stop the progress you’ve made so far, and if you take a full break, you’ll go through the retinisation process again,” he explains. “Retinol purging is a temporary side effect; if possible, continue to use your retinol as directed.” 

Gradual introduction is key to minimising redness, discomfort or flaking, especially for sensitive or dry skin. Following the 1-2-3 rule is recommended: apply retinol once a week for one week, twice a week for two weeks, three times for three weeks, then move towards every second night if there are no side effects. If you experience flaking, redness, or sensitivity, move back to a lower frequency for a week.

Many people make the mistake of applying too much, thinking more is better. Overusing the product can strip the skin, leading to dryness, redness, flakiness, and irritation. Instead, apply only a small amount, especially when first introducing retinol to your skin.

Finally, never forget sunscreen. Retinoids increase the skin’s sensitivity to UV damage. “Because retinoids work to speed your skin cells’ life cycle, they make the skin more sensitive to the sun,” Lancer explains. He advises always applying an SPF 30 or higher after moisturising during the day. Remember to reapply every two hours.